Here are the instructions on how to install the DynoJet kit on the Honda 650 Rincon.

First, you are going to have to take off the top of the carburetor to get the needle out. There are 4 Phillips head screws on the top to get it off. Be careful not to strip these screws out, they are soft. After you get the top taken off, the carburetor spring will come right out. Take it out and put it away. Then the black rubber thing comes out just by pulling on it. After you get it out, take a Phillips screw driver and unscrew the Phillips head inside the black tube. It will only turn a little then stop. Now you can remove the needle by pushing it up through the tube. This is where you need to be careful not to loose and small parts and remember how they go back together. When you get the needle out it will come out two small washers. Hang on to those washers. Put the needle up somewhere if you want to keep it. Next, get the DynoJet needle, the DynoJet washer, and the e-clip that comes in the kit. Now, refer to FIGURE A on the picture above. Put the e-clip on the notch of the needle that the instructions above refer to for your elevation. Now put the stock washers under the e-clip and drop the needle back into the hole of the black tube where it came from. Now you may need to use needle-nosed-pliers to get the DynoJet washer on top of the e-clip on the needle. When that is done, put the white plastic retainer back over the needle inside the tube and use the Phillips screw driver and screw it in until it stops. Don't try to tighten it after it stops. Put the black tube-like thing back down into the carburetor now. There is a little "tab" on the outer rubber ring that sits into a notch on top of the carburetor, make sure you get that tab back into the notch. Then, get the DynoJet carburetor spring out and put it right inside of the black rubber ring, right where the old one came from. Now, put the top of the carburetor back on. When you put on the top, make sure the black rubber is all inside and none is sticking out. Screw the screws back onto the top in an "X" pattern just to be sure it seals up evenly. Remember not to screw them too tight, or they may strip out. Now you are done with the top of the carburetor.

To change the main jet, located on the bottom, you're going to have to flip the carburetor over. First, you should shut your gas off so no fuel leaks. Now, there are two bolts on the air box toward the rear of the ATV. Take them out so the air box can move back. Locate the intake tube leading to the air box and take it out. Next, loosen the clamp closest to the carburetor on the tube in between the carburetor and the air box. Then, loosen the clamp closest to the carburetor on the tube in between the carburetor and the engine. On the right side of the ATV, take off the plastic to get to the recoil starter and idle speed adjuster. Loosen the bolt and take off the black idle-speed adjustment knob. This will allow you to turn the carburetor upside down now. If you don't remove the bolt, you won't be able to turn the carburetor over because the line from the adjustment knob will get tight and not allow you to turn it. After that is done, turn the carburetor upside down as far as you can get to work on it. Remove the large fuel line on the left side of the carburetor, it may leak some gas but will quit if you have shut the gas off on the tank. If there are any other lines that need removed, remove them so you can turn it over. You may also need to remove the carburetor from in between the two hoses to turn it over also. Now that you have it turned over, take a Phillips screw driver and take out the 4 screws. Be careful with these screws also, they are soft and strip out easily. After you get the screws out, you will take off the carburetor bowl. Refer to FIGURE B. This is what it should look like when you take the bowl off. To remove the main jet, take a flat-head screw driver and unscrew it until it comes out. Now, get look at the instruction #4 on the picture above. It will tell you what main jet you need for your modifications (if you have any) and your altitude. For example, if your ATV is stock and you are below 3000 feet in elevation, you will use the DJ144 main jet. After you find out what main jet you need, get it out of the kit and screw it right back into the place where the old main jet came from with a flat-head screw driver. Screw it in until it is fairly tight; don't over tighten because you don't want to damage it. Now, you can put the carburetor bowl back on with the 4 screws. Tighten these screws back on in an "X" pattern just like you did for the top of the carburetor to make sure it seals evenly. Ok, you’re almost done. Last, refer to instruction #5 on the picture above and locate your idle mixture screw on FIGURE B. Screw it all the way in (clockwise) until it seats. Then, adjust it to what the instructions say for you elevation. Now you are all done with the carburetor. Turn it back over and put it back in between the two tubes it came from and tighten the clamps. Then, connect the black idle speed adjustment knob back on, on the right side. And connect and other lines you may have had to disconnect. Make sure there are no lines disconnected from the carburetor now. Now, put the two bolts back into the rear of the air box and tighten them up. Make sure everything is back like it was and there are no lines left unhooked. You can now turn your gas back on. Turn the ATV on and start it and check for any gasoline leaks. If there are none, let it warm up for a little bit and test it out to make sure it runs right. If everything is good, you’re done!

Tuning after DynoJet kit is installed.

Now, if your Rincon doesn't seem to be running right after you have installed the DynoJet kit, you will have to do some tuning.
If it doesn't run right on the low-end, you need to adjust the idle mixture screw.
If it doesn't run right in the mid-range, you need to raise or lower the e-clip on the carburetor needle.
If it doesn't run right on the top-end, you need to put in a different sized main jet.

When tuning your carburetor settings, always check the spark plug for rich, ideal, or lean mixtures. This is not 100% accurate, but it's pretty close. If the plug is black and sooty, the mixture is too rich. If the plug is a shade of brown, it's an ideal mixture. This is the mixture you want for best performance. If the plug is hazed over with a white film or if it is very clean looking it's too lean. Running the engine too lean, will cause heat and damage over time.

Now, to richen the low-end, you will need to screw the idle mixture screw OUT. To lean up the idle mixture, you will need to screw the idle mixture screw IN.
To richen then mid-range, you move the e-clip DOWN one notch on the needle. To lean the mid-range, you move the e-clip UP one notch.
To richen the top-end you put in a bigger main jet. To lean up the top-end, you put in a smaller main jet. They are numerically numbered by size. For example, a DJ144 main jet is smaller than a DJ146, which is smaller than a DJ148 and so on.

These are the instructions of how the DynoJet kit was installed into my Rincon. I will not be responsible if something was done wrong during the installation of your DynoJet kit, or if it causes damage to your engine for any reason. If you have any problems during or after the installation of the kit E-mail me and I will try to help.